Thank you for your purchase of ESTechnical products. If you have any questions or comments please let us know, we are always keen to hear feedback about our products.
Auto Reset Jumper
The ESTechnical reflow controller v4 PCB and onwards has a jumper for enabling or disabling the auto-reset behaviour of the MCU. With the jumper connecting the two pins it is possible to easily upload new firmware to the controller via USB to serial connection from a computer. With the jumper open, the MCU will not automatically reset when the serial port is opened by a computer - this is more convenient in normal operation and we suggest that you operate the controller with the jumper open.
Unplug the power cable from the reflow oven.
Remove the drawer from the unit (pull forwards until it stops, then carefully undo the clips (gently move the plastic levers) that keep the drawer in the runners, then slide the drawer out from the runners. Set the drawer aside.
Remove the screws that are under the front edge of the lid, there are two or three screws in the drawer opening, keep these safe.
Turn the unit around so you are looking at the back, remove the screws that hold the lid on the case, keep these safe.
Being very careful not to pull on any cables, carefully lift the back of the lid slightly, then gently slide the lid forwards until it unhooks from the lower part of the oven. Lift the lid off the oven, turn over and place it next to the bottom half of the oven.
Gently pick off the hot glue that's covering the connectors on the control board. A small pair of pointed pliers is helpful here, only try to remove a small amount at a time.
Disconnect all the cables that attach to the control board. Do not pull on cables, pull the connectors apart gently and without twisting.
Completely remove the control board and display and set aside – these items are no longer needed.
You should have the following cables unplugged - at this point, take a moment to familiarise yourself with the wiring that is present. You need to be able to identify each of these cables in order to proceed with the installation.
Low voltage AC power cable from the small transformer, has a plug that fits onto two pins.
Small signal cable to the heater SSR, fitted with two pin JST connector.
Mains cable that was used to supply the power for the oven cooling fan to the ESTechnical Reflow Oven Controller, this has a three pin connector with only two terminals populated.
One cable that goes into the back of the oven, this is the oven cooling fan cable and has a two pin connector fitted.
2x thermocouples with colour coded crimp ferrules to indicate polarity.
Keypad ribbon cable.
One cable that goes to the two panel LEDs, this has a 4 pole JST connector.
One cable that goes to the small DC cooling fan, with a 2 pole JST connector.
Set aside the lid part of the oven for now.
Carefully un-crimp the tubes that hold the thermocouples using a pair of pliers. Gently pull out the thermocouple.
Inspect the thermocouples and if necessary untwist the wires so that the wires only touch when meeting the bead, the wires should not be twisted together leading to the tip. A small pair of pliers is needed – be careful the thermocouple is fragile. This reduces the mass of the thermocouple junction and improves the response time to temperature changes.
Re-mount one thermocouple in the front mounting tube and position the tip 10-15mm above the surface of the drawer (45-50mm above the inside of the oven with the drawer removed).
Gently crimp the tube with strong pliers to hold the thermocouple in place – do not crush the thermocouple wires. The other thermocouple is not needed - keep this as a spare.
Grind/file/sandpaper away the powder coated covering until you reach bare metal around one screw hole on the rear of the lid. This provides an earth connection to the back panel. The matching area on the rear panel of the oven also needs to be prepared in the same way so good metal on metal contact will be achieved when the oven is reassembled.
Screw the supplied stand-off posts into the four screw posts at the corners of the display window inside the lid.
Carefully remove the protective film that covers the LCD on the ESTechnical controller. Try not to touch the display, install the controller immediately.
Place the ESTechnical Reflow Oven Controller on the mounting posts for the display, making sure you have oriented it correctly. The Keypad ribbon cable should curl round and line up with the keypad connector on the controller.
Screw down the ESTechnical Reflow Oven Controller using the provided M3 6mm bolts – do not over tighten these screws.
Plug in the thin ribbon cable for the keypad, the connector is labeled 'Keypad'.
Identify the cable that connects to the panel LEDs, plug this onto the pins labeled 'LEDs' on the ESTechnical Reflow Oven Controller.
Find the cable for the small cooling fan, plug this into CONN5, being careful to observe the polarity marked on the board. In some ovens, the fan polarity is not clearly marked, damage will not occur if it is connected in reverse, but the fan will not run. You may need to come back and reverse this connection.
The installation of the controller in the lid is now completed, set aside the lid for now.
It is necessary to improve the earth connection to the case of the oven, since the original manufacturer powder coats the panels and does not provide a good earthing connection. Unscrew the bolt securing the earth cable to the panel, remove the earth connection and refit the bolt.
Being careful not to damage the cables, drill a 3.5mm or 4mm hole near the mains inlet.
Sandpaper or grind away the coating around the newly drilled screw hole on the inside surface of the back panel. Be sure to expose the metal surface properly for a good earth connection.
Also prepare the area around the screw hole which matches up with the screw hole on the lid, prepared earlier. This ensures the lid and the back panel are well connected to the electrical earth.
Using the supplied M3x8 bolt and self locking nut, bolt the earth connection from the inlet to the newly prepared earthing area.
Confirm that there is a low resistance connection between the earth pin of the power inlet and the metal case. Test between a screw head on the rear panel (but not the newly fitted earth bolt) and the earth pin of the power inlet. The resistance measured here must be less than 1 Ohm. Using a multimeter with a low Ohms range, the typical reading is about 0.15 Ohms. If the resistance is too high, confirm the correct function of the meter and if necessary improve the contact between the earth connection and the metal panel.
Disconnect and unbolt the heater SSR. The small signal cable can be discarded, a replacement is provided.
It is necessary to drill two extra holes so that the two new SSRs mount together as shown. Mark where you will drill first with a fine marker pen or pencil and double check the position of the marks by offering up the SSRs to their new mounting sites.
Once you are satisfied that the location of the pen marks are correct, gently make a center punch mark on each mark; caution is required as the oven contains quartz heater elements.
Before drilling, move all the cables out of the path of the drill.
Pilot drill the SSR bolt holes with a small drill, eg 2-3mm.
Drill the two SSR bolt holes to the final size needed, 4.5-5mm.
Be careful to remove all drilling swarf and to clean up any sharp edges on the holes you drill (a counter-sink or larger drill bit turned by hand in the hole is good for cleaning the edges).
Do not allow any small bits of metal to remain inside the oven housing!
The masking tape in the T962A should be removed. If the tape is difficult to remove, heating with a hair dryer helps soften the tape adhesive and makes it easier to remove.
Apply kapton tape (not supplied) to replace the masking tape.
Pass the main fan cable under the 9v transformer and tuck the cable out of the way.
Mount both SSRs into the case firmly and ensure they are oriented with the low voltage control terminals in the center of the oven with the larger power terminals towards the edges, this will make the wiring easier later. Bolts for mounting the extra SSR are included.
Connect the wire coming from the heater to terminal
2 ~ on the heater SSR. This wire already has a fork crimp terminal fitted.
Connect the remaining fork crimp terminal (which connects together a group of three wires) to the heater SSR terminal labeled
1 ~. See photo above.
Identify the cable that goes to the exhaust fan at the back of the oven. Cut the two wires at the base of the plug.
Choose one of the wires from the fan (either wire is OK), shorten this wire to an appropriate length to connect to the fan SSR terminal labeled
2 ~. Strip the insulation from the wire for about 5mm from the end, twist together the strands and then crimp on one red fork crimp (supplied).
Connect the fork crimp to the fan SSR terminal labeled
2 ~, the remaining fan wire can be seen in the foreground.
Identify the cable that previously supplied mains power to the fan driver on the original controller board. You can follow this cable back to the mains switch mounted on the back panel of the oven. Cut off the connector, remove the high temperature sleeve and save this as it will be reused.
Separate the two halves of this two core cable by pulling the two halves away from each other. Take care not to damage the insulation or pull on the wires too hard.
Identify the Neutral wire, this can be followed back into the group of wires connected to the heater SSR terminal
1 ~. Pass this wire through the high temperature sleeve that covers the supply wires to the 9v transformer.
Connect the Neutral wire (using the other red fork crimp) into the SSR terminal labeled
1 ~. You can shorten this cable to suit the new location.
Place both the heat shrink sleeve (provided) and the high temperature sleeve (provided) over the remaining wire to the fan.
This wire needs to be connected to the remaining live wire, this can be followed back to the switch terminals. These wires should be joined by first twisting together then soldering to form an overlap of at least 6mm.
Shrink the heat shrink sleeve over the join with a hot air gun. Although the inside of the lid does not get very hot, it is advisable to cover the heat-shrink sleeving with the high temperature sleeve for extra thermal protection.
Connect the two supplied 50cm signal cables to the two input terminals of the SSRs.
Slide these cables through the heat-resistant sleeve that was recovered from an earlier step.
At this stage the finished mains wiring should look like the following photo.
Identify the output cable from the small mains transformer and cut off the plug.
Strip about 5mm of the insulation off the end of the cable, twist together the strands of the wire.
Optionally fit bootlace ferrules to the ends of the wires (not supplied and optional).
At this point you should have the cables prepared as shown, these are the 9v AC power to the controller, SSR signal cables and main oven thermocouple cable.
Place the lid of the oven alongside the lower part of the oven. Connect the 9v AC to the power connector on the ESTechnical Reflow Controller. The two wires can go into the connector either way round as this is low voltage transformer isolated AC.
Identify the thermocouple cable. The thermocouple mounted in the front of the oven drawer needs to be connected to the controller thermocouple input A. Make sure you observe the polarity of the thermocouple, it has one lead marked red (this is positive, marked + on the board) and the other is blue/black (-).
Plug in the signal cable that goes to the Heater SSR, this fits to the two pins labeled 'Heater SSR' on the ESTechnical Reflow Oven Controller PCB. Observe the polarity marked on the controller board and SSR.
Plug the cable that goes to the Fan SSR onto the connector on the ESTechnical Reflow Oven Controller labeled Fan SSR. Observe the polarity.
Carefully inspect the wiring of the oven, there should be no loose strands of wire sticking out from connectors, if there are any, redo the connection being careful to correctly insert all the strands into the screw terminal before tightening the screw. There should also be no plugs that are not plugged in and no remaining cables – if there are, go back and check.
Confirm that there is no short-circuit in the mains wiring by measuring the resistance between the live and neutral terminals of the power connector. The main power switch must be in the
on position for this test. This should measure around 500 Ohms, the approximate resistance of the primary winding of the 9v transformer.
Check there is no accidental connection between the mains wiring and the ESTechnical Reflow Controller. There are two options for this test depending on the meter(s) you have available:
Using an insulation resistance tester: Measure the resistance (using an insulation resistance test mode set to 250v) between one of the 9v AC power connections and the mains wiring neutral connection. This should measure as open-circuit or a very high resistance, e.g. greater than 500MOhm. If this test shows a resistance of less than 500MOhm, check all connections are made as per the instructions and confirm the isolation between the primary and secondary windings of the 9v transformer with an insulation resistance tester set to a 250v test range.
Using a standard multi-meter: Set the meter to the highest resistance measuring range eg 10MOhm. Measure the resistance between one of the 9v AC power connections and the mains wiring neutral connection. This should measure as open-circuit. This test is less thorough than the above option, but should alert you to any issues with this part of the installation.
Return the power switch to the
Inspect all wiring again before reassembly!
Being very careful not to pull on or trap any of the cables, reassemble the oven by carefully placing the lid on (slightly forwards of where it needs to end up) and then slide it towards the rear of the oven.
Fit the screws at the front of the oven in the drawer opening.
Fit the screws on the rear panel of the oven.
Refit the drawer to the runners taking care to accurately line up the rails with the ball bearings. Push the drawer until it closes. It may need opening and closing 2 or 3 times to feel smooth after reassembly.
Now the oven is ready for testing. Plug in the power and switch on the oven, the display should illuminate and the ESTechnical Reflow Oven Controller will display the splash screen followed by main item of the menu. (If the display does not illuminate, switch off the power immediately and go back and check connections.)
Check the small cooling fan is running, if not, go back and check the connection.
Cycle Start (navigate the menu with the
> keys ) and press OK to start a reflow cycle. The main fan should begin to gently idle and the heaters should begin to heat up. Press the 'S' key to stop the cycle. The ESTechnical Reflow Controller will go into cool-down mode. The fan will stop when the oven returns to near room temperature. The cooling down display can be interrupted without interrupting the cooling of the oven to access the menu, just press the 'S' key again.
If the fan does not start or the temperature does not begin to rise, switch off the oven immediately to prevent any possible damage and go back to checking all connections. See troubleshooting for suggestions.
Proceed to the operating instructions.
|Controller does not power on when oven is switched on||Incorrect connection of low voltage AC supply to controller||Check connection of low voltage AC power supply to the ESTechnical Reflow Controller.|
|Mains power is not supplied to the 9V transformer||Check the primary winding of the 9V transformer is connected between the switched live feed of the oven and the neutral terminal|
|Fan or heater does not work during a reflow cycle||Incorrect connection of signal cable between Reflow Controller and SSR||Check the polarity of the connection and correct if necessary, the polarity is marked on the controller and the SSR terminals|
|Incorrect mains power or SSR connections||Check the connections between the mains power, SSRs and loads (heater and fan) are made as per the instructions|
|DC cooling fan does not start||Incorrect connection of the DC cooling fan to the ESTechnical Reflow Controller||Check (and possibly reverse) the connection on the controller to the DC cooling fan, the wiring colours used by the original oven manufacturer are inconsistent and can be misleading|
|LED indicators do not light during a reflow cycle||Incorrect polarity connection of the LEDs to the ESTechnical Reflow Controller||Check (and possibly reverse) the connection on the controller to the LEDs, the wiring colours used by the original oven manufacturer are inconsistent and can be misleading|
|When a reflow cycle is started the temperature reported on the display drops instead of rising||Thermocouple connection is reversed||Correct the reversed thermocouple connection|
|Controller displays “Thermocouple input open circuit”||Incorrect connection of the thermocouple to input A of the ESTechnical Reflow Controller, or broken thermocouple||Disconnect the thermocouple from input A and measure the resistance of the thermocouple, it should measure less than 10 ohms. If the thermocouple is open circuit, replace the thermocouple.|
|Controller displays “Temperature following error during heating”||Thermocouple is incorrectly placed||Confirm the placement of the thermocouple is as per the installation instructions and adjust if necessary|
|There is no PCB in the oven drawer||The temperature following error can occur when the oven drawer is empty and a cycle is run, test with a PCB below the oven thermocouple|
| The || Ensure the
| The || Reduce the
EC Declaration of Conformity
12 Ormonde Road,
in accordance with the following Directive(s):
|2004/108/EEC||The Electromagnetic Compatibility Directive|
hereby declare that:
ESTechnical Reflow Oven Controller
when installed and operated as per the supplied instructions the equipment named above complies with all applicable Essential Requirements of the Directives.
Signed by: Ed Simmons
Carried out at:
12 Ormonde Road,
16th September 2013
Copyright ESTechnical 2012-2015